SU MESHI - SUSHI RICE

MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS

For the Sushi Vinegar

• One 2-inch square piece of kombu (dried kelp)
• 1 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
• ½ cup granulated sugar
• ¼ cup kosher salt

For the Rice

• 3 cups short-grain white rice (“sushi rice”)

MAKE THE SUSHI VINEGAR
Briefly and gently wipe the kombu with a damp towel to remove any dirt or grit, but do not scrub off the white stuff, which is full of umami.
Combine the vinegar, sugar, salt, and kombu in a small pot and set it over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring often, just until the sugar has dissolved, about 1 minute. Do not let it boil. Let the mixture cool to room temperature.
Measure ½ cup of the vinegar mixture and set it aside. Store the rest, including the kombu, in an airtight container in the fridge for up to several months.

COOK THE RICE
Put the rice in a large mixing bowl and add enough water to cover the rice by 1 inch. Use your hands to stir and agitate the rice to release the starch from the exterior of the grains. Empty the water, fill the bowl again, and repeat the process until the fresh water no longer becomes cloudy when you stir the rice. Drain the rice in a mesh strainer, shaking well to help drain excess water. Let the rice sit in the strainer, stirring once or twice, until it’s more or less dry to the touch, 15 to 30 minutes.
Combine the rice and 3 cups of fresh water in a rice cooker and cook according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
While the rice is hot, gently scoop it into a bowl. Sprinkle the reserved ½ cup of sushi vinegar over the rice. Gently fold the rice to make sure the vinegar is well distributed without smashing the grains. Cover with a clean kitchen towel pressed to the surface of the rice and let the rice cool to just slightly above room temperature before using for temaki (hand rolls).

JAPANESE-STYLE FRIED RICE

There is no better use for leftover rice than chahan. A brief trip in a pan resurrects the grains and a few pantry ingredients—little more than eggs, oil, and salt—transform tired rice into a super-satisfying meal. To give the humble dish a little flair, I whip up a saucy broth filled with vegetables and shrimp and pour it on at the last minute. Of course, you can add any ingredients you like—peas or asparagus, kimchi or Japanese pickles, pork, or even, as I do at Morimoto Napa, duck confit.

SERVES 4

• ¼ cup diced (¼-inch cubes) carrot
• 12 medium shrimp (about 6 ounces), peeled and deveined, cut crosswise into thirds
• ¼ cup fresh or frozen corn kernels
• ¼ cup fresh or frozen shelled edamame
• ¼ cup diced (¼-inch pieces) fresh shiitake mushrooms or rehydrated dried shiitakes
• 2¼ cups low-sodium chicken stock
• 3 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce
• 3 tablespoons sake (Japanese rice wine)
• 2 teaspoons granulated sugar
• 1½ teaspoons kosher salt
• 3 tablespoons cornstarch
• 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
• White or black pepper to taste
• ¼ cup vegetable oil
• 4 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 6 packed cups cooked short-grain white rice , preferably 1 or 2 days old
• 1 generous tablespoon thinly sliced scallion greens

Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Add the carrot and cook 2 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook until they’re just cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes more. Drain and then return them to the pot. Add the corn, edamame, shiitakes, chicken stock, soy sauce, sake, sugar, and ½ teaspoon of salt. Set the pot over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. In a small container, stir together the cornstarch and 3 tablespoons of water until smooth. Gradually add the cornstarch mixture to the pot, stirring constantly. Let the stock mixture come to a boil again and cook just until slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Take the pot off the heat and stir in the sesame oil and pepper to taste; keep warm, covered.